Category Archives: Stainable Wood Filler

A Two-Tiered End Table

New furniture can be expensive and inexpensive furniture is often made of particleboard. So when we were looking for a new endtable, I decided I would need to get creative and build on myself. I really like these solid pine, pre-glued panels available in large home improvement centers. The panels come in a variety of lengths and widths and are easy to cut to whatever dimensions you prefer. They would serve as the perfect material for what I had in mind.

I started my end table project with 30″ x 18″ piece, then glued and screwed a 14″ section to one end for the back. The remaining section will become the second tier of my two-tiered end table.

Since the pine panels are just 3/4-inch thick, to give the appearance of being thicker, I glued and nailed 1″ x 2″ pine boards to the edges.

I then used Minwax® Stainable Wood Filler to disguise the small nail holes.

As soon as the Wood Filler had hardened and dried, I sanded the entire table with #150-grit sandpaper and vacuumed off the dust.

To reduce any blotchiness when I stained the pine, I first applied a coat of Minwax® Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner.

Fifteen minutes later, I grabbed a heavy-duty paper towel and began rubbing in a coat of Minwax® Wood Finish™ in “Honey.” I just wanted a light coat of stain, so after three minutes I then wiped off any stain the wood had not absorbed.

While the table was drying, I set my four unfinished legs on a scrap of foam board and sprayed on a coat of Minwax® Polyshades® in “Classic Black.” Polyshades® is a combination of both stain and polyurethane that, unlike paint, lets the grain of the wood show.

For the two tiers of the table,  I added two coats of clear Minwax® Fast-Drying Polyurethane. It really enhanced the beauty of the wood and will provide all the protection our end table will need.

Until next time,

Thanks for stopping by!

Bruce

Making Those Missing Shelves

You may recall that I recently transformed a discarded 1990s microwave cart into this rolling serving center. However, each time I looked at the inside of the doors all I could see was the opportunity to add a pair of shelves to them.

So, I picked up some half-inch thick oak boards from my local home improvement center, then cut them to fit the inside of each door.

These thin boards were easy to glue and nail together, but I was left with some unsightly nail holes. To fill them, I squeezed in a small amount of Minwax® Stainable Wood Filler, which I sanded smooth as soon as it dried.

To match the rest of the serving center, I left the oak boards natural, but sealed and protected them using Minwax® Clear Aerosol Lacquer.

The lacquer dried quickly and it was easy to attach my shelves to the inside of the doors with small L-brackets positioned under each of the two shelves. Now when I open the doors, I no longer see a missed opportunity!

Until next time,

Thanks for stopping by!

Bruce

DIY Modern Planter Box with Not JUST a Housewife

Guest blogger Stacy Risenmay of Not JUST A Housewife is back with a fun project for anyone with a green thumb. Follow her tutorial and see how to bring your garden indoors with this DIY modern planter box. 

Sometimes when I have a big project that is starting to feel overwhelming, I like to stop for a bit and work on a smaller project. I think I just need to FINISH something. When the project or room I am working on seems like it will never be done, it is nice to have a sense of accomplishment that something did get finished. Shane calls it project ADD, I call it keeping my sanity 🙂

The big project I needed a tiny break from is our upstairs bathroom. The little project I decided to do was this DIY modern planter box.  I partnered with Minwax® to bring you the tutorial. It is pretty simple and would look great indoors or outside on a porch.

planter-box

slatted-planter

Supplies:

3/4″ plywood

Table saw

Miter Saw

Lattice trim

Brad nailer gun

Drill

1 1/2″ screws

Wood Putty

Sandpaper

Black paint

Minwax® Water Based Wood Sheen

Foam brush

Paper towels

1 1/2″ casters

First, you need to cut out the pieces for the box. I wanted it to be 12 inches wide by 14 inches tall. Since I was doing a basic butt joint, two sides had to be narrower to fit inside the other two sides. You could always do a 45 degree cut to have a prettier corner, but since it was going to be painted and mostly covered up, I didn’t think it mattered to take the extra time. Add the width of two boards and then subtract that from the width you want it to be when completed. For 3/4 inch boards, that is 1 1/2 inches making the inside boards 10.5 inches instead of 12. Because the bottom piece will also fit inside, it will also need to be 10.5 inches.

peices-for-planter-box

Because planters will be getting wet when watering the plants inside, the wood will want to warp over time. I have found that brad nails do not hold up well over time. I use screws to hold together planters. Screw together your box, sand it well, and then paint or stain it the base color.

black-base-color

I cut the trim on my miter saw to have 45 degree cuts on each end so when they meet up at the corner they had a nice mitered corner instead of a butt joint. Nail the trim on with a finishing brad nailer or glue it and hold it on with clamps until the glue dries.

nail-the-lattice-trim-on-the-box

Fill the nail holes and any gaps using a wood putty. When it is dry, sand it smooth. Make sure you sand off all putty except where the little nail hole was. Even though putty is stainable, it is only stainable to a point and your finish may look splotchy if you don’t sand off all the extra putty.

putty-nail-holes

Wipe down the planter box after sanding. I ended up hosing mine down because the sawdust in all the little recessed areas was hard to wipe off.  When it is dry, it is time to stain! I chose to use this Minwax® Water Based Wood Sheen. Since it is water-based, it is easy to clean up and because it has a sheen to it, I made sure to wipe off any that got on the painted wood by running a damp cloth over the painted parts. If I had an extra foam brush (I go through them like crazy!) I would have used a damp foam brush since it would have fit so well in between the slats. I did two thin coats. The more coats you add, the more sheen your project will have. I like satin or matte finishes so I didn’t add more but you certainly could for a richer and shinier look.

Minwax-Wood-Sheen

I am really happy with how it turned out! It is actually going to go in one of the boy rooms I am hoping to work on this summer. That is my next big project after the bathroom renovation. One of the rooms will have a mid-century modern vibe and I think this DIY planter will fit right in with the design.

slat-planter

But for now it will happily reside in our family room!

DIY-modern-planter

 Be sure to check out Minwax’s new “Made With Love. Finished With Minwax.” campaign currently going on. The theme is ‘Find. Finish. Love.,’ celebrating the thrill of finding real wood pieces – sometimes in the least expected places – and the joy of making them into something we love.

Stacy Risenmay is a DIY enthusiast. In her blog, Not Just a Housewife, she shares her adventures of fixing up her 1938 cottage. She believes that whether it’s big or small, everyone should love their space. Learn more about Stacy and visit: http://www.notjustahousewife.net/about. You can also follow Stacy on Facebook, Twitter, and Instagram

A Vintage Hatbox Revived As the Perfect Gift

April is Minwax National Woodworking Month®! To celebrate, Minwax® expert Bruce Johnson has put together some of his favorite tips & tricks for using Minwax® products. Don’t forget to download the Minwax National Woodworking Month® mail-in rebate form, you could save up to $17 on select Minwax® products. 

BeforeFor several years now, Leigh Ann has had this antique Victorian hatbox, with a drawer for gloves, that had been taken from a tall dresser her grandmother once owned. With Leigh Ann’s birthday fast approaching, I decided I could find a new use for it.

Wood Filler The top had a few unsightly nail holes, so I squeezed in some Minwax® Stainable Wood Filler, let it dry, and sanded each one smooth with the wood.

Stain side The original color of the oak hatbox was still attractive, but badly worn, so after a light sanding I applied a fresh coat of Minwax® Wood Finish™ in “English Chestnut” to even out the color.

Base stain I used the same color to stain a new oak base I plan to set it on when it is complete.

Spray Tray At our craft supply store, I picked up four unfinished pine trays and sprayed each one with two coats of Minwax® Clear Aerosol Lacquer. After the lacquer had dried, I cut a piece of felt to line the bottom of each one, as well as the bottom of the glove drawer. By this time, the English Chestnut stain had dried, so I protected all the wood with three light coats of Minwax® Clear Aerosol Lacquer.

ClosedI then installed two plywood shelves inside the box where a Victorian gentleman would have stored his tall hat. Next, I screwed the hatbox to the new oak base, rehung the door and slipped the drawer back into place.

OpenNow instead of a Victorian hatbox she never quite could decide what to do with, Leigh Ann has a new place to store and display her jewelry, as well as a daily memory of her grandmother.

Until next time,

Thanks for stopping by!

Bruce