Making Lemonade


Remember the saying, “When life gives you lemons, make lemonade”? Well, during our kitchen remodeling this past summer, some of the new cherry kitchen cabinets we ordered came looking like they had been dropped off the back of a truck. Drawers were broken, corners crushed, hinges sprung, and shelves split. The company quickly sent replacements, but had no interest in the damaged cabinets. So, I put them in the garage, started making repairs, added a particle board top, and now Leigh Ann and I have a cherry workbench for our projects. I’d say, in the end, it worked out in our favor.

(Quick Tip: look for damaged cabinets at salvage shops in your area for your workspaces.) – Bruce

6 comments on “Making Lemonade

  1. David

    Not a comment but a question. Can you help me? Can tung oil be put over your pen. stain and sealer product? thank you

    1. Bruce Johnson Post author

      Yes, provided you have allowed time for the Stain Markers to completely dry. Anytime you are using a rub on finish, such as Minwax Tung Oil, Antique Oil, or Wipe-On Poly, you have to bear in mind that the pressure from the rag will wipe off any stain which has not been allowed to completely dry. Hope this helps. Thanks! -Bruce

  2. Gerald (Jerry) Benson

    Without researching all of your archival information which may or may not give me the answer to the question that I would like to present to you now is ! I have installed real red oak three quarter by three inch random length tung & grove flooring in my house. My kitchen front hall way and living room about ten years ago using your Minwax products with great success prior to that back in the late seventies I installed maple trim : base board , window sills & window casings and door jams using Minwax products to finish with great success. I understand your product has changed according to government mandate that has something to do with VOC ? It takes a miserable amount of time for your new High Gloss High Build for hard wood floors to dry. Overnight or one or two days at most was the previous wait. But now it is try three days & then wait another week then add another week even after six weeks there is marking because the finish isn’t cured. I have heard from other individuals who have experienced similar night mares using your new formula. Are you aware of this and if so is there an additive that could be added to your product to restore it to former recipe specifications ?

    1. Bruce Johnson Post author

      You are correct, Gerald, that Minwax has had to adjust some of its formulas in order to comply with new government VOC regulations. That being said, the extensive drying time you are experiencing is not typical. Drying times are extended when the humidity is high or the temperature is cool. In your instance, I would set up a simple fan or two to blow fresh, dry air over the floor, thus speeding up the final evaporation and curing. Also, as an experiment, if you still have some of the finish remaining, try brushing it on a piece of scrap wood and letting it dry in a room that is both warm and has humidity below 50%, then see how long it takes to dry. It should be within the range specified on the can, but let me know. Good luck and thanks for your question. -Bruce

  3. Phil Smith

    I stained a part with Dark Mahogany. The piece of wood has dark areas and light areas in it. The contrast is too much to suit my wife. If you are married, you see where I am headed. I need to lighten the finish or paint over it. What choices do I have?

    1. Bruce Johnson Post author

      Being married to a particular wife, Phil, I know where you’re coming from. I always consider paint as a final option, so if it is worth it I would sand down to bare wood and start over by first applying a coat of Minwax Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner according to directions, then applying your stain. That should eliminate the blotchiness in your stain. Hope this helps!

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