Monthly Archives: January 2015

New House, Old Doors

Just because a house or an addition may be new doesn’t mean it has to look new, especially if “new” also means “no character!” This homeowner went to an architectural salvage yard and found several old pine doors with a fantastic, mellow patina — and their original brass-plated hardware. After cleaning each door, he simply rubbed on a coat of Minwax® Antique Oil, which both preserved and protects the wood without losing all of its antique charm.

Until next time,

Thanks for stopping by!

Bruce

 

Making a New Goose Look Old

In my office I collect goose decoys — old, new, and in between —  and fell in love with the pose of this brand new, machine-molded, synthetic material goose. Rather than wait a hundred years for her to acquire some signs of age, I decided to carefully do a little distressing . . . .

First, I used some #220-grit sandpaper to slowly remove the paint on just the high spots that would first show wear naturally.

Then, to give some “age” to the bright, white paint, I carefully misted on some Minwax® Pecan Polyshades®, choosing the satin version to also make it look older.

And now my brand new goose is sitting on a bookcase in my office, looking like she spent several years outside before coming in to roost with me. The key to any distressing:  first study an authentic antique, then only imitate wear in places where it appeared naturally.

Until next time,

Thanks for stopping by!

Bruce

How Old Is It?

We’re looking at a hundred year old floor, right? Well, not quite. This is a floor I laid just fourteen years ago using recycled Southern yellow pine boards nailed down with new square-headed nails. Rather than hide the nails, I let them show to help give the impression of a floor that is much older than it really is. As a finishing touch, I applied three coats of Minwax® Fast-Drying Polyurethane — and it still looks great today!

Until next time,

Thanks for stopping by!

Bruce

Practicing For Haven

In this post, I will be demonstrating how to stencil. I started by sealing the wood with two coats of Minwax® Polycrylic Protective Finish to prevent the stain from seeping beneath the outline of my stencil.

Since my stencil is very large, I sprayed a light coat of aerosol adhesive on the back, then let it dry so that the back of the stencil is tacky, but not wet with glue.

While my spray adhesive was drying, I gathered my tools:  a sea sponge, Minwax® Express Color™ Onyx, paper towels, and a scrap piece of plywood to hold them all.

After dipping my sea sponge lightly into a small puddle of Onyx stain and finish, I pressed it onto the paper towel to remove the excess stain that might seep under my stencil, then carefully and lightly began dabbing a thin layer of stain atop the stencil. Don’t get impatient and apply too much, as it will run under the edge of the stencil.

By repeating the process, I quickly began building up thin layers of stain over the stencil.

In less than ten minutes I had covered the entire stencil on my practice board.

Then came the first reveal as I carefully pealed back the stencil.

Beginning to get the picture?

And here is my completed practice stencil for the top of the kitchen cart! After it dries I will protect it and the wood with an additional coat of Minwax® Polycrylic Protective Finish.